It is a sunny afternoon, and I am sitting on the outdoor patio at the Kilmorey Lodge restaurant watching paddleboarders and kayakers making their way across the unusually still waters of Upper Waterton Lake. The time of year when summer fades into fall is one of the best times to visit the Alberta Rockies. The weather is still balmy, golden leaves paint the landscape and summer crowds are gone. Waterton Lakes National Park is less developed than Alberta’s other Canadian Rockies parks, but this autumn there’s a new lodge, restaurant, and pub to enjoy – one that also has a long history in the park.
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