Valentine’s Day can be troublesome. Apparently loving couples can end up running in opposite directions halfway through a meal, even in my restaurants. Though that isn’t true for most lovebirds celebrating this Thursday, I have decided to embrace the contentious nature of the day with a meal that is anything but predictably mushy. There are anchovies in my starter, coffee in the dessert and a duck main that calls for overnight salting beforehand. All points to discuss amicably before a proper cooking session, which is as good a way as any to stimulate dialogue, teamwork and love.Whole roast kohlrabi with herb oil and fried almonds (pictured above)Kohlrabi is a wonderful vegetable to roast, but it needs a little help because of its high water content, so I smother it with herb oil and aromatics. Leave out the anchovies to make this vegetarian.Prep 10 minCook 1 hr 55 minMakes 4 as a side4 large kohlrabi (1.2kg), trimmed of any leaves and stalks (but not peeled) 2 tbsp olive oil1 tsp cumi...
