Steep Slopes and Silver Dollars: The Insider’s Guide to Jackson Hole
Quiet luxury may be trending, but in Jackson Hole, it’s always been de rigueur. While the nouveau riche were donning furs at chalets in St. Moritz or spraying champagne at Cloud Nine in Aspen, the truly landed gentry was wintering further north, and further west, across the border in Wyoming.
It’s no longer a secret that Jackson Hole has the highest concentration of billionaires per capita in the United States, and the reason why is similarly well-known nowadays. What was once a hidden gem—a high altitude desert nestled within the Teton Range, home to some of the best skiing in the lower 48—is now a bucket-list destination for socialites and alpine adventurers alike.
This was perhaps inevitable in the age of social media, but what’s perhaps most shocking is the fact that this Cowboy State hamlet has remained largely unchanged in spirit and in vistas. The latter is thanks to strict zoning laws (97 percent of the land in Jackson Hole is protected) and the legacy of conservation efforts spearheaded by John D. Rockefeller and written into law by Teddy Roosevelt (the first National Park, Yellowstone, borders Jackson Hole to the north, while Grand Teton National Park preserves the lakes and forests to the west). The rugged, unspoiled wildness of Jackson Hole perseveres today, not just in the backcountry terrain and grazing herds of bison, but also in the energy and spirit of the town.
And I would know. Back when my family first started going to Jackson 32 years ago, we would camp at Jenny Lake, arriving the night before and securing a spot the very next morning (unheard of nowadays, when international visitors book campsites years in advance). When I entered middle school, we upgraded to a cabin. I distinctly remember my 13-year-old friends asking why, on earth, my family would buy a place in Wyoming. Today, many of those friends vacation there with me regularly.
Yet somehow, Jackson still remains unafflicted by the snobbery and pretentiousness of other ski-and-be-seen destinations out West—more low-key than the ski snobs at Deer Valley or the private-access-only energy of Big Sky. First off, the famously challenging slopes of Jackson Hole have expanded in recent years, accommodating more intermediate terrain. And the vibe is decidedly far more low-key. You’ll look ridiculous if you cosplay as a full-on rhinestone cowboy while wandering through the old town square. If you’re wearing a ten-gallon hat, you better be a rancher.
In Jackson, the rodeo champions are largely indistinguishable from the coastal elite, mingling and dancing to bluegrass at the aptly-named Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. And with the influx of even more high-end restaurants and luxury hotels, the perfect Jackson Hole itinerary is always changing—though some mainstays forever remain. On the 60th anniversary of the legendary ski resort, we’ve rounded up the very best places to eat, drink and explore in Jackson Hole, no matter the time of year. So, read on, and prepare to venture into the wild—in style, of course.
The Insider’s Jackson Hole Travel Guide
- Rusty Parrot
- Four Seasons Jackson Hole
- Amangani
- Hang Your (Cowboy) Hat…
- Ski Jackson Hole
- Explore Grand Teton National Park
- Saddle Up at Spring Creek Ranch
- Sleigh Rides in the National Elk Refuge
- How the West Was Fun…
- Dornan’s
- Snake River Grill
- Glorietta Trattoria
- Billy’s Burgers
- More Mountain Munchies…
- Wild by Nature Gallery
- Kemo Sabe
- Womenfolk
- Lee’s Tees
- Additional Ranch Dressing…
- Mangy Moose
- The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar
- Silver Dollar
Where to Stay
Rusty Parrot
- 175 N Jackson St, Jackson, WY 83001
This 40-key boutique property offers guests the best of both worlds, geographically—easy access to the Jackson town square, but far enough from the crowds and businesses to offer an unobstructed view of Snow King Mountain. The family-owned property originally debuted in 1990, but was destroyed by a fire in 2019. It reopened its doors in July 2024 with an even more elevated spa (Body Sage Spa) and award-winning, world-class fine dining—Wild Sage serves up classic modern favorites with a regional twist (think ranch-raised beef tartare) in a rustic and romantic fireside setting. The hotel’s handcrafted, mountain-chic ambiance is perfect for a cozy weekend of hitting the trails in the morning and later relaxing with a glass of wine in the library for afternoon tea.
Four Seasons Jackson Hole
- 7680 Granite Loop Rd, Teton Village, WY 83025
Ski-on, ski-off luxury awaits at the Four Seasons. Everything you need is at your fingertips, whether that’s a fireside hot toddy and duck fat fries at the Handle Bar or a gourmet 15-course omakase experience. The elevated rustic decor incorporates Native American and frontier influences amongst a sophisticated backdrop of natural materials like wood and stone. And the location simply can’t be beat—guests can wake up and walk 30 feet to the morning gondola, and recover with a soak in your outdoor jacuzzi in the afternoon. Private balconies provide the ultimate opportunity for people-watching, as you can observe skiers whiz by down the mountain, and enjoy a private après gathering that’s close to the action but separate enough for a VIP seat. If you’re still looking to unwind, the luxury spa specializes in healing facials and recovery massages to make sure you’re fresh for first tracks the next morning.
Amangani
- 1535 E Butte Rd, Jackson, WY 83001
Perched atop East Gros Ventre Butte, Amangani is a bastion of elegance surrounded by unspoiled wilderness, with panoramic views best enjoyed from the 115-foot outdoor infinity pool. The hotel is outfitted in a modern, rustic-chic aesthetic, with Native American influences and woven cowhide accents, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows showcasing views of the Snake River and the valley below. The property is currently undergoing a renovation and is expected to reopen its doors, chicer than ever, this summer. Plan your trip now, as the 40-suite property books up far in advance. And summer is the ideal season to visit this part of Jackson Hole, as the hotel is located right down the street from the horseback riding oasis that is Spring Creek Ranch—but more on that later.
Hang Your (Cowboy) Hat…
The Cloudveil is ideally situated right along the town square, with a lively rooftop bar and always-popular on-site restaurant, The Bistro, making it a favorite for visitors and locals alike. Across the green, the Anvil Hotel blends industrial and western elements for a cozily inviting frontier-chic aesthetic. Heading out towards the mountain, The Virginian Lodge is a beloved local institution in the form of a 1964 motor lodge that recently underwent a massive renovation, transforming the property into a more elevated boutique hotel, while maintaining that ‘60s charm.
What to Do
Ski Jackson Hole
- 3395 Cody Ln, Teton Village, Wyoming
If you visit Jackson Hole in the winter and opt out of skiing or snowboarding, your cowardice is understandable but, ultimately, unnecessary. Yes, Jackson is famous for its 4,139-foot vertical drop and bountiful backcountry access, but the resort has vastly expanded its intermediate terrain in the past decade, so mid-mountain groomers abound. And the views are simply spectacular. If you are inclined to challenge yourself, then spend a day hiking the headwall, and head to the top—the aerial tram delivers skiers above the treeline for some delicious waffles at Corbet’s Cabin and a legendarily steep descent. The best part? Jackson Hole restricts the number of lift tickets per day, so lines are virtually nonexistent. While this winter has been notably dry, Jackson Hole has the most snow in the continental U.S. aside from Vermont (and we needn’t remind you of the vertical difference between east and west). Lastly, check out Mudroom for your rentals—their curation of gear and equipment is top-notch. (And in these conditions, you’ll need the best.)
Explore Grand Teton National Park
- 103 Headquarters Loop, Moose, WY 83012
The most iconic mountain views of Jackson Hole—the sunset falling behind the dramatic jagged peaks rising above Oxbow Bend—aren’t available in town, or by the ski mountain. No, you have to head north to Moose, or Moran, to witness the splendor of the National Park. Shockingly, this isn’t as common an activity for visitors as one might think. Even in the wintertime, portions of the park are open, and wildlife safaris and snowmobile tours set out to explore the vast, unspoiled terrain. When you venture up to Moran, you will be at the northernmost entrance of the park, and, from there, two enticing options await. In the summertime, you can head even further on your drive into Yellowstone—just plan to leave early in the morning—and another option is to visit Turpin Meadow Ranch, a preferred hideaway for Bob Dylan, which offers horseback riding, cross-country skiing and more, based on seasonality.
Saddle Up at Spring Creek Ranch
- 1600 N E Butte Rd, Jackson, WY 83001
The beauty of summiting East Gros Ventre Butte is that all of Jackson Hole unspools around you as you gaze down upon the valley floor, a view best appreciated on horseback. Spring Creek Ranch offers trail rides along the mountainous ridge 1,000 feet above the town of Jackson, with spectacular views of the surrounding Teton Range and the Snake River, carving a bright blue ribbon of freshwater across the high alpine grasslands. And you needn’t be an expert equestrian to partake in the experience, as the cowboys are patient and the horses even more so. And if you are an avid rider, the magnificent vistas will preclude any sense of boredom from the slower pace. In the wintertime, the ranch offers horse-drawn sleigh rides across the snowy terrain.
Sleigh Rides in the National Elk Refuge
- 675 E Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001
Sleigh rides are a winter staple in Jackson Hole, redefining the meaning of slow travel and immersion with the elements. And the sleigh rides in the Elk Refuge, home to up to 7,000 elk in the coldest months, are the absolute pinnacle of this experience. Are you cold? Yes. But blankets are provided, making the voyage across the frozen sagebrush flats extra cozy. Afterwards, see what inspiration such animal encounters inspire with a visit to the nearby National Museum of Wildlife Art, which houses the premier collection of wildlife art in the United States.
How the West Was Fun…
Hit the slopes at Snow King, also known as the “town mountain,” for a far less expensive day on the mountain. Night skiing is available, as is family-friendly tubing, and the Grand View Spa is marvelously rejuvenating. To truly live like a local, cap off your wintry adventure with a visit to the local hot springs; Astoria Hot Springs is famed for its waterfall bath, while Granite Hot Springs boasts five mineral-rich, therapeutic soaking pools.
Where to Eat
Dornan’s
- 12170 Dornans Road, Moose, WY 83012
Margaritas in the mountains may not seem like the most obvious combination, but at Dornan’s, it feels like heaven. Sidle up to the Spur Bar for a cocktail and one of their famous pizzas (we recommend the Buck Mountain) for dinner with a view. Dornan’s is easily the most scenic spot in all of Jackson Hole, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Snake River and the Teton Range beyond. First built in 1922 near the Moose entrance to Grand Teton National Park, Dornan’s has been a Jackson institution for over 100 years. Another Jackson Hole staple is the sloshie, a delicious yet deadly frozen cocktail (essentially an alcoholic smoothie), and they’re best enjoyed on the outdoor deck at the Chuckwagon on a hot August afternoon. Summer is the busiest season at Dornan’s, with adventurers gathering on the rooftop of Pizza & Pasta Co year-round for sundowners after a day exploring the park. But Dornan’s is just as enchanting (and cozy) in winter, too—and a daily special fried chicken sandwich compels devoted locals (and in-the-know tourists) to brave the icy roads up to Moose. Luckily, the drive is just as gorgeous as the destination.
Snake River Grill
- 84 E Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001
A Jackson Hole institution, the Snake River Grill is a must-visit for the perfect steak and martini on a night out in town. The restaurant first opened in 1993, and despite the influx of hot new eateries in recent years—and the town’s growing reputation as a culinary hotspot—Snake River Grill maintains its supremacy by sticking to the classics. Reservations are recommended, especially on summer weekends and during ski season, and the private room is available for small groups. Order one of their delicious espresso martinis before heading out for a night on the town.
Glorietta Trattoria
- 242 N Glenwood St, Jackson, WY 83001
The perfect date night spot in Jackson, Glorietta has it all: cozy banquets, delicious pasta and dinner by candlelight. The elevated mountain aesthetic reflects its location within Anvil Hotel, a sophisticated boutique property that still carries on a frontier vibe. The wood-fired Italian restaurant serves up a mouthwatering selection of handmade pasta—we recommend the elk bolognese—and equally delicious craft cocktails. Reservations are recommended, but bar seating is also available. It’s an ideal place for mingling with strangers-turned-friends while lingering over a glass (or two) from the restaurant’s extensive Italian wine selection.
Billy’s Burgers
- 750 W Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001
A longtime Jackson favorite, Billy’s Burgers once operated within the Cadillac Grille on the town square, before shuttering in 2012—much to the dismay of local patrons. Luckily, the burger joint reopened in June 2023, in a new location within the Virginian Lodge, another beloved Jackson institution that, thanks to its frequent events and weekly music series, serves as a gathering spot for locals and tourists alike. The Virginian was formerly a 1960s motel, and Billy’s Burgers perfectly captures the kitschiness and whimsy of that decade and ambiance with its retro-themed counter service, Betty Burgers, and milkshakes. Afterward, head over to The Virginian Saloon for a nightcap and potentially some karaoke (pending your levels of liquid courage).
More Mountain Munchies…
For the best brunch in town, head to Cafe Genevieve, or if you’re in a rush to get to the slopes, pick up a pastry and a matcha at Persephone’s Bakery next door. Be wary of the line—Persephone’s has fast become a Jackson favorite, with locations in town and in Wilson, so order online in advance if you’re eager to make first tracks. For old-school Wyoming flavor, head to the Gun Barrel, where the taxidermied walls and Old West decor never truly go out of style, with over 30 years of serving up steakhouse classics. Another local favorite is Cutty’s, a Philadelphia haunt known for its delicious selection of cheesesteaks—and impressive array of Philly sports memorabilia hanging on the walls.
Where to Shop
Wild by Nature Gallery
- 95 W Deloney Ave, Jackson, WY 83001
Jackson is home to a number of independent art galleries, many of which are clustered around the town’s historic town square. It’s easy enough to spend an entire afternoon admiring the artwork, particularly the wildlife and landscape photography, which (unsurprisingly) flourishes in the region. Wild by Nature showcases the work of Henry H. Holdsworth, whose photography captures the vividness of the surrounding valley (and its resident apex predators) with stunning clarity. Perusing his work via the various photographs, notecards, and books, it’s easy to see why this part of the world is known as “America’s Serengeti.”
Kemo Sabe
- 165 Center St, Unit #1, Jackson, WY 83001
We may have insisted earlier that Jackson Hole is nothing like Aspen, but on one count—the expensive cowboy hat—we may have to concede to the glitz-ification of this Wyoming mountain town. The high-end western apparel brand first opened in Aspen in 1990, and quickly established itself as a pioneer in the cowboy-hat-as-status-symbol economy. Kemo Sabe opened its fourth location in Jackson Hole in the summer of 2022, and the formula works just as well across state lines. A customized hat, with all the accoutrements (feathers, jade knives, silk sash), will easily set you back four figures. But the price seems almost beside the point when the process is so intoxicating—literally. (I made my first-ever purchase after my third in-store margarita). The vibe is fun, and the selection of all things high-end western is astonishing—a luxurious array of turquoise jewelry, embroidered cowboy boots, fur capes and leather luggage.
Womenfolk
- 140 E Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001
For high-end vintage western wear, look no further than Womenfolk, an ultra-curated selection of designer mountainwear with a cult following that transcends the mountain west. (The phrase “all hat, no cattle” exists for good reason—sometimes, the sartorial style is a better fit for your needs than the lifestyle itself.) Check out their extensive array of accessories and heirloom pieces, and keep an eye out for their limited drops—in-store shopping events heralding a new collection. If you’re not first, you’re last.
Lee’s Tees
- 10 E Broadway Ave, Jackson, WY 83001
A major focal point of shopping in any ski town is to assess the local merch, and it’s here that Jackson Hole thrives. Lee’s Tees, right on the town square, has been a mainstay in the genre since it opened in 1978. Nearly half a century later, the store offers a wide selection of apparel featuring every Wyoming or Teton or Jackson logo and iconography your heart could possibly desire. Stroll down the block to Teton Gravity Research if you want to look like more of an insider (or ski aficionado), and check out their ever-popular Grateful Dead collaboration. And for the official mountain gear, check out the Jackson Hole Resort Store right across the square.
Additional Ranch Dressing…
For western accoutrements, home items, and small gifts, Jackson Mercantile is a must-visit. Open since 1906, you’ll know you’ve arrived when you spot the taxidermied bison guarding the front entrance (you can take a photo with the animal, but, just like in the wild, don’t touch). Jackson Hole Pendleton has a selection of the brand’s iconic jackets and blankets, and, down the block, Overland Sheepskin Co. offers a vast array of furs and leathers and sheepskin throws. It’s also open dangerously late and positioned just below the Snake River Grill, prompting more than a few whiskey-fueled purchases that I’ve yet to regret the next day.
Where to Drink
Mangy Moose
- 3295 Village Dr, Teton Village, WY 83025
After surviving a day of skiing Jackson’s notoriously challenging terrain—among the steepest in the lower 48—reward yourself with a visit to the Mangy Moose. A legendary après ski scene awaits all season long at the base of Teton Village, where aircraft and the eponymous taxidermied moose hang from the ceiling above and throngs of skiers congregate at the multi-level bar below. Expect live music and an even livelier crowd; if you’re looking to ski and be seen, this is the spot. Order a shot-ski if you’re feeling brave, or a sloshie if you want to taste some local flavor—the best of which is, of course, huckleberry. A more low-key watering hole awaits at the Mangy Moose Cafe below, and the dangerously located gift shop is filled with perfectly eccentric mountain merch. Try to earn your turns early in the day to arrive before the 4 p.m. madness, or stop by later in the evening once the crowd has thinned out, with many revelers headed into town for the Cowboy Bar (a classic combination, and our next stop, too).
The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar
- 25 N Cache St, Jackson, WY 83001
To visit Jackson Hole without once stopping at the Cowboy Bar is the mountain equivalent of heading to the Cape and not visiting The Squire, or staying in Newport without setting foot in the Clarke Cooke House. Unthinkable. The vintage neon sign of a bucking cowboy illuminates the town square at nightfall, a veritable bat signal promising whiskey sours and classic country. It may be harder to get into the Cowboy Bar these days than it once was, but it’s always worth the wait. Saddle up (literally) on a bar stool at the long wood bar and order a Cowboy Mule while indulging in some of the best people-watching in town. The scene skews younger as the night grows later, but you’ll still find the old salts gathered around the pool table, and clusters of cowgirls and wannabe cowgirls posted up along the dance floor. Live music is a mainstay, and the selection varies from Miley Cyrus to Willie Nelson. The line starts to form down the block in downtown Jackson Hole after dinnertime, but if you stop in earlier in the evening and get a wristband, you can skip the queue and walk in like you own the place.
Silver Dollar
- 50 N Glenwood St, Jackson, WY 83001
Another Jackson establishment, Silver Dollar, is located within the legendary Wort Hotel, which first opened its doors in 1941. The Silver Dollar bar is named for the 2,032 uncirculated 1921 Morgan silver dollars that were inlaid in the 65-foot bar top in 1950, the same year the bar opened. A favorite watering hole then, and still one of the best spots in Jackson, the Silver Dollar maintains its Old West vibe with bluegrass music, line dancing and portraits of the brothel owners and ranchers who populated the town in years past. That’s not to say the bar is stuck in time—it alternates from Hank Williams and Johnny Cash to Sabrina Carpenter—and the patrons range in age from 18 to 80, though power is assigned to whoever has the best (most confident) dance moves under the pink neon lights. If you’re seated at a walnut table by the stage, don’t be surprised if you’re asked to dance. To say yes may feel embarrassing, but to say no is even worse, so finish your drink and giddy-up.