By BETTY LIU, Voracious Sticky rice, aka sweet glutinous rice, is best steamed so its plump, chewy grains are ready to sponge up all the flavor. This dish from my cookbook “The Chinese Way” is a riff on lo mai gai, a dim sum classic. I created it almost by accident when I was obsessed with tomato paste and the umami it can contribute. The result is reminiscent of paella, but with the classic sticky-chewy texture of sweet glutinous rice. You’ll end up with a bit of crispy browned rice at the bottom of the pan — scrape it up, fold it into the final mix and savor those crispy bits. Please note, if using salted stock, omit the teaspoon of kosher salt. This...
