Review: Tiburon’s newest Mediterranean restaurant a delight
Light, bright and inviting, Troya in the Cove Shopping Center in Tiburon was our destination for lunch on a recent sunny weekday. Several of the outdoor tables were occupied with those taking advantage of the unusually warm weather. We entered the restaurant to find a few more tables occupied. Passing by the bar, we seated ourselves under the mural by San Francisco artist Yalcin Temel at the south end of the room. The mural in warm pastel shades of a laurel-crowned woman cast a glow upon my friend seated in front of it. If you want to display yourself in a good light, Troya is for you. Betu Kinalilar, who opened the restaurant with her husband, Berk, in spring 2025, used her talents well in decorating Troya so that it pleases and flatters those who dine there.
The wine list features California, Oregon, French, Italian and eastern Mediterranean wines by the glass ($14 to $18) and by the bottle (averaging $85). Intrigued by something different, we chose the Amethystos sauvignon blanc blend from Greece ($17) and La Ferme Rouge’s Carignan syrah blend ($15) from Morocco. Both were well-made, tasty wines that went well with our food. Beer and nonalcoholic beverages are also available.
Given a chilly day, I would have chosen the Red Lentil Soup ($10) with paprika oil, lemon and herbs, and pita on the side. On this warmer day, we selected items under their starters section: the Spinach Feta Borek ($13) and Roasted Cauliflower ($15). Troya makes their borek with puff pastry rather than the traditional phyllo dough. Four puffs, larger than golf balls and sprinkled with sesame seeds, had a zesty sharp cheese filling. The borek and one of their salads — Winter Citrus Pomegranate Salad ($22), Mediterranean Chicken Salad ($22) or Falafel Salad ($19) — could be an ample lunch.
The roasted cauliflower florets served on a bed of labneh, a full-flavored yogurt sauce strained to the consistency of mascarpone and whipped with tahini, were liberally sprinkled with mild Turkish Urfa chiles. This was definitely one of the table’s favorites and perfect for sharing.
Many Americans have embraced the Mediterranean diet for its health benefits. An important aspect of eating like a Mediterranean isn’t just the food on the table but the approach: slow down, linger over a meal and share with others. Troya’s menu, space and atmosphere are conducive for this practice.
We leisurely ate the starters, then ordered the Vegetarian Moussaka ($27) and Lamb Meatballs ($34). Our servers perfectly timed the food delivery.
An oval metal casserole on a wooden platter bubbled with the squash-, eggplant- and lentil-filled moussaka. This comfort food, warm and full of complementary flavors, was topped with a cheesy bechamel.
Served in a cast-iron skillet, five large, tender lamb meatballs were enveloped in an aromatic, chunky tomato Shakshuka sauce with flavors of cumin, paprika and coriander. Two hunks of grilled bread from next-door neighbor Jane / Marin perched on the side and were quickly put to good use being dunked into the sauce. At $34, it seemed a bit steep for meatballs, but I must admit they were worth it! Again, this was perfect shareable dish.
You definitely don’t want to overlook the desserts. Only one, the ever-popular and satisfying Warm Chocolate Lava Cake ($14), is made in-house.
We did not need to step through a magic wardrobe to be tempted by the Lokum ($12). “Lokum” translates as “Turkish delight” and refers to a plate of four pieces. The staff was very indulgent of us when we went up to the display case to choose. We selected our four gleefully, like kids in a candy shop. Arranged like jewels, it wasn’t easy to choose. The Hazelnut Chocolate Raspberry was scrumptious. BaklavaStory in San Francisco provides the baklavas, and the Turkish delights are imported from Emirelli.
We ordered deep, dark Turkish Coffee ($5) to complement the sweets. The beautiful little cup served on a small tray with a thin slice of Turkish delight capped our delicious and delightful lunch.
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.
Troya
Address: 1 Blackfield Drive, suite 12, Tiburon
Phone: 415-888-9281
Website: troyatiburon.com
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Noise level: Moderate
Seating: Inside and outside
Liquor selection: Wine and beer
Vegetarian dishes: Yes
Vegan dishes: Yes
Gluten-free selection: Yes
Dog-friendly: Outside
Reservation: Call
Parking: Free lot
Hours: Brunch and lunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays; dinner daily from 5 to 9 p.m.
Prices: $5 to $39
Summary: A polished restaurant with refined Mediterranean cuisine