The Year We All Embraced Salmon Sperm
Even if you’re not interested in skin care, you probably saw (or heard) that in 2024, Kim Kardashian got a “salmon sperm” facial. While at the time, we were scandalized and fascinated, in 2025, we all seem to want fish DNA in our skin.
The year, skin experts, including celebrity aesthetician Sofie Pavitt and former Allure editor-in-chief Michelle Lee, chronicled their Rejuran (the brand name of the “facial”) experiences in South Korea; there was an explosion of PDRN-infused (the ingredient derived from salmon sperm) products from Korean brands like Medicube, Some by Mi, and Dr. Althea for those of us who can’t afford a trip to the peninsula; and Kris Jenner promoted Rejuran’s skin-care line on TikTok to millions of fans. “It’s the skin-care equivalent of discovering a secret menu item — people can’t resist,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Mona Gohara.
The hype is beyond real; some of the most popular products among Cut readers this year were ones like Medicube’s PDRN Pink Collagen Gel Mask and the Dr. Reju-All PDRN cream, which was also sold-out pretty much everywhere in South Korea when I visited in the fall. But not everybody is convinced yet. “Media outlets, we love KBeauty, but stop with the PDRN glorification,” Charlotte Palermino, an aesthetician and the co-founder of Dieux, recently posted on Threads. “It’s really not doing anything in your skincare and certainly not when the product is $30 and has no receipts on claims.”
So what exactly does PDRN do? Why did Rejuran use salmon sperm? And is Palermino right? Do skin care products with PDRN even work? We investigate all of that and more below.
What does PDRN do?
PDRN is a compound with DNA fragments sourced from salmon. “Think of it as a tiny instruction manual that tells skin cells to repair, regenerate, and generally act like their younger, more efficient selves,” explains Dr. Gohara. She says that PDRN is nothing new, and derms have used it to heal wounds for years. Rejuran also claims that the ingredient boosts moisture levels and supports collagen production, increasing elasticity and firming the skin in the process — this explains the poreless, porcelain look we’ve seen in the before-and-afters on social media.
The “salmon-sperm facial,” which technically isn’t even a facial, involves injecting a solution with the DNA fragments into the dermis (the middle layer of the skin), leaving you with weltlike bumps all over your face for a few days. According to board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jenny Liu, you need multiple sessions spread out across months for best results.
How much does a salmon-sperm facial cost?
Because PDRN injections aren’t FDA-approved in the U.S., you’ll have to fly to South Korea to get them, where they’ll cost you at least a few hundred dollars. You can technically get PDRN microneedled into your skin here, which is likely not as effective, but even that’ll run you just as much money, if not more — Palermino says she was recently quoted $1,850 for the procedure.
Why salmon sperm?
Salmon DNA closely resembles human DNA, which allows it to “interact smoothly with human cells and promote regeneration,” according to Rejuran. Whereas plant-based or synthetic alternatives don’t have longer-term clinical studies backing them up, salmon-derived PDRN does. And where can we find high concentrations of salmon DNA? In the fish’s gonads, of course. After the sperm is extracted, however, it goes through a purification process that isolates only what’s needed.
Are there any risks?
Aesthetic procedures all carry some level of risk. Dr. Gohara and Dr. Catherine Chang, a Beverly Hills–based board-certified plastic surgeon, stress that biologically derived substances like PDRN could result in an allergic reaction. As a result, Dr. Chang says that she doesn’t recommend injecting PDRN into the skin at all. “I’ve seen many patients, some as recent as last week, develop severe allergic and immune reactions that can last six or more months,” she says. “One case involved someone with over 200 red bumps across her face and neck where the PDRN was injected.” She says that unfortunately, complications like these can be difficult to treat.
Dr. Gohara, however, simply recommends getting a patch test or speaking to a dermatologist before going for the procedure (you should also probably mention if you have a fish allergy). And Dr. Liu states that for in-office treatments, “side effects are minimal when performed properly, but there’s always a risk of redness, swelling, or irritation post-procedure.” It sounds like the rule of thumb is to always consult a dermatologist first and make sure the PDRN your provider uses is from a legitimate source.
What about skin-care products with PDRN?
Considering in-office PDRN treatments are so expensive, it’s no wonder K-beauty brands with PDRN products have experienced such success in the past year, leading to more launches. While Palermino looks forward to getting Rejuran injections, she questions the potency of these affordable skin-care formulas and posits that other, cheaper ingredients like glycerin might be doing more of the heavy lifting. “I work with contract manufacturers in South Korea, and I have been told by them that they dust, which is when you sprinkle an ingredient in and you claim it,” she says.
Dr. Reju-All Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream
For example, the viral Dr. Reju-All cream contains some PDRN but also panthenol and niacinamide, which appear higher on the ingredient list. “These ingredients soothe your skin and reinforce your barrier,” Palermino says. “When you reinforce your barrier over time, you reduce something called transepidermal water loss, which is actually what keeps your skin hydrated and stronger.” In other words, there must be a reason why so many people love that product, but the raved about results may not be because of PDRN. Overall, her stance is that we need more data and testing before concluding that PDRN in skin care can give results similar to that of the injections. Dr. Chang agrees, stating that “most claims are anecdotal rather than evidence-based,” she says. But she also notes that topical products don’t carry the risks that injections do: “There’s little harm in testing it out. I just wouldn’t expect dramatic results.”
What if I still want to try PDRN skin care?
Go for it! Even if there are significant enough levels of PDRN in the products, Dr. Liu warns that the DNA fragments may be too large to actually deeply penetrate the skin. “That said, some smaller fragments or nano-formulations may have modest effects on surface hydration and barrier function,” she says. Dr. Liu suggests purchasing from a science-backed Korean dermocosmetic brand like Rejuran, which Dr. David Kim, board-certified dermatologist from SoHo Dermatology in NYC, also likes — he recommends the Dual Effect Ampoule as well as Biodance’s PDRN mask for “an instant glow.”