Albarino from our shores takes a bigger stage

Enough so, in fact, that we were able to conduct our first panel tasting for the variety - with remarkably good results.

In other words, it finds a middle ground that's less shrill than Sauvignon Blanc, less neutral than Pinot Grigio and less wonky than Riesling.

A classic nod to Rias Baixas: wet stone, white peach, Anjou pear and a slightly astringent juniper-like spice, plus juicy orange-pulp fruit.

2012 Bokisch Terra Alta Vineyard Clement Hills Albarino ($18, 12.5%): Markus Bokisch turns out impressive versions of Albarino from Lodi, and this harvest from the area's eastern side yields a ripe, almost tropical version from this vintage: pineapple, jackfruit and key lime.

2012 Alexandria Nicole Affinity Columbia Valley Albarino ($22, 13.4%): From near Prosser, Wash., this small label found a spicy, juicy Northwest expression aged in steel: candied grapefruit, pink peppercorn and acacia blossom, with a stony freshness.

2012 Harney Lane Lodi Albarino California ($19, 13%): The Mettlers, longtime Lodi growers, have found a refreshing, ripe expression that's worth checking out as counterpoint.

2011 Bonny Doon Vineyard Central Coast Albarino ($20, 13.2%): Randall Grahm was early to this grape, and this is his best take in a few years (although the 2012 is now available), with lots of talc and peach and sweet carrot.