The overlooked European city with 15th century palaces and pink soup festivals

“YOU might notice some blood over there,” says our tour guide, gesturing towards a washing machine in a prison which once housed Lithuania’s most notorious criminals.

The hairs on the back of my neck stand on end as I shine my torch over to catch sight of the sizable crimson stain, surely from some dark, twisted, violent attack.

Getty

Getty

“Well, that’s from when they filmed Stranger Things in here,” he continues.

Phew, well that’s a relief, at least.

I’m in Lukiškės Prison, a magnificent yet terrifying building in the capital city, Vilnius, on what is increasingly becoming an eye-opening getaway.

From 1905 to 2019, it housed thousands of criminals in horrendous conditions and was then used as the set for part of the fourth series of Stranger Things, when Hopper, played by David Harbour, was detained in a grim Soviet jail.

Now it has been opened to the public, with tours around the prison to explore the cramped holding cells.

But it has also become something of a cultural hub, repurposing parts of the building as studios for musicians and dancers, and creating event spaces, a bar, a restaurant — even a sauna.

And there’s the annual 8 Festival – an indie music event which has played host to acts like Sleaford Mods and Arlo Parks.

Now, I am well aware that jetting off to a prison doesn’t sound like the most relaxing holiday to escape the stresses and strains of modern life.

But Vilnius is an intriguing place, striking out as an independent nation and finding its feet again after years of Soviet rule.

I flew out on Finnair’s swish A350 plane to Helsinki with a connecting flight on to Vilnius in celebration of 30 years of flights to Lithuania.

Despite my time in prison there, it’s easy to see what makes it such an attractive destination.

I stayed at The Hotel Pacai, a luxury 5* property housed in the remains of a historic 17th century mansion and reopened in 2018.

Inside are104 rooms and suites, which are spacious with gigantic beds – I had my best sleep of 2024 so far – as well as complimentary Molton Brown products in the bathroom and even an exercise kit with resistance bands and more, just in case you want to get a sweat on away from the hotel’s gym.

And if the journey took it out of you, the hotel has its own spa where you can have a massage to ease away the tension.

Located in the heart of Vilnius Old Town, it is surrounded by picturesque cobblestone streets and is within walking distance to many of the key sights.

Go Vilnius

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With two full days to explore, I was eager to hit the ground running on the morning after my arrival and wandered over to the stunning, neo-classical Vilnius Cathedral.

Next door is the rather wonderfully named Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania, which is one of the city’s newest attractions, even though it was originally constructed in the 15th century.

The estate, once home to the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and the future Kings of Poland, was partially destroyed by an explosion in 1651 and then dismantled in the 19th century.

But now it stands tall once again as a museum charting much of Lithuania’s history, with exquisite grand interiors.

While ornate buildings like these dominate the old town, there is also plenty of green space as they sit alongside a beautiful green park, complete with a hill topped with Gediminas Castle Tower.

I didn’t quite fancy that trek, so instead headed south-east to the Church of St. Francis, standing alongside the Church of St. Anne, both of which are the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture in the city.

A hop across Vilnia river is Užupis, the smallest and most arty district of the old town, and home to one of the most in-demand restaurants — Amandus.

It’s best known for its tasting menu which, while not cheap, was both fun and delicious.

Think popping candy, blowtorches, dry ice and even a shot out of a test tube, it was all going on.

Despite my time in prison there, it’s easy to see what makes it such an attractive destination

Howell Davis

In June, the first Michelin Guide selection in Lithuania will be announced and it is likely to be battling it out with a restaurant across town called Nineteen 18, which I can certainly recommend as a similarly tasty, yet high-end, place for special occasions.

Neither are what you’d call traditional grub though and for that, the best place to head is Lokys, which markets itself as the oldest restaurant in Vilnius.

I was told I just had to try the saltibarsciai, which is a cold beetroot soup and now even has an annual festival celebrating it, where you can whiz down a massive pink slide.

My main course of beaver meat stew was even quirkier and was beefy, rich and just what I needed while temperatures weren’t soaring outside.

Part of the beauty of this city is the melting pot of cultures, periods and experiences.

The modern art gallery Mo Museum pushes the boundaries of Lithuanian culture and expression with thought-provoking Baltic art.

On the other hand, there is the dominating TV Tower is a 326-metre-tall Soviet landmark which is a constant reminder of Lithuania’s history, having been occupied until 1993.

It’s well worth a trip up to the newly-renovated bar and viewing platform, where you can walk right to the edge on a harness if you are braver than me.

For a brighter experience, Vilnius is one of the only cities in Europe which you can fly over in a hot air balloon with the best time between May and September.

As a tourist, it isn’t hard to miss the impact which the Soviet Union occupation had over several decades.

One of the most confronting experiences is in the Museum of Occupations and Freedom Fights – known as the KGB Museum – which is housed in the former headquarters of the secretive security agency.

Chillingly, you can even visit the windowless execution chamber and learn about the horrendous punishment of enemies of the state.

This is a city in a state of flux, still shaking off the shackles of its past while embracing new opportunities.

For a European destination which is refreshingly different, Vilnius is a solid choice.