California getaway: Tomales Bay and Dillon Beach make a great weekend escape

From Nick's Cove to the Lodge at Marconi and beachside cottages at Dillon Beach, here's the perfect summer -- or spring -- weekend escape on the coast.

Sometimes, the journey is not even remotely part of the fun. Long flights, sweaty car rides and fast food stops are not exactly vacation highlights. But here in the Bay Area, there are so many extraordinary places nearby, the route  is nearly as special as the destination itself. Dillon Beach is one of those spots.

Heading out toward the coast from San Rafael along Lucas Valley Road will take you through the tiny town of Nicasio and drop you right into Point Reyes Station. Stop to wander around the shops, grab a coffee or check out the new Wild West Ferments shop, housed in the converted hay barn where Cowgirl Creamery lived for 25 years.

As you head north along the eastern shore of Tomales Bay, you’ll encounter Marconi State Historic Park, which carries an astounding — and at times sinister — history. Native Coast Miwok tribes lived here first, of course, but the first modern owner of this property was Guglielmo Marconi, the inventor of wireless radio who transmitted the first transatlantic radio signal. Synanon, the rehab program-turned-abusive cult had headquarters here for nearly 20 years, until the San Francisco Foundation purchased the property in 1980 and deeded it to the California State Parks Foundation.

Now, the newly opened Lodge at Marconi has brought this historic, long-vacant property back to life. Last year, Oliver Hospitality signed an almost unheard-of long-term lease of 55 years, working with the state to refresh, renovate and restore this special piece of coast. The public is welcome to hike and explore the 62-acre park from sunrise to sunset. Park for free at the Lodge — check out the chic vintage lobby and grab an espresso drink or picnic supplies from the little store onsite — then hit the trails that crisscross the property. The views from Tower Hill, with evidence of Guglielmo’s antennae towers still apparent, are incredible.

Keep the (pet friendly!) lodge in mind for your next trip too. The hotel plans to add a full-service restaurant, a spa with hillside hot tubs overlooking the ocean and an entire glamping village.

Need a snack after that hike? The perfect spot lies just a couple of miles north. Heave open the trident-adorned wooden doors at Nick’s Cove and sidle up to the bar, where you can order a craft cocktail courtesy of Sam Levy. owner of Sebastopol’s award-winning Fern Bar, and a platter of oysters. When in Rome, as they say, and this is certainly oyster country. The smoked black cod dip with fried saltines or the Rhode Island clear clam chowder are also excellent refueling options.

The restaurant and hotel recently went through some big changes led by Palm House Hospitality, with local celebrity chef Chris Cosentino helming the kitchen. The beloved Boat Shack at the end of the little Nick’s Cove pier was destroyed by a fire in January, but word is the rebuild is happening sooner than expected after a successful crowdfunding campaign.

Just a bit further up the road, you’ll come to the little intersection that is Tomales town proper. Turn left and sail along the brief, bucolic drive that leads to your home for the weekend: Dillon Beach Resort. This historic property opened in the 1800s, but recent renovations have brought life back to this perfectly situated cluster of cottages overlooking Dillon Beach. Marin County restaurateur Mike Goebel and his partners, who bought the property in 2018, constructed 13 new buildings there in partnership with Eugene, Oregon-based Tru Form Tiny. Open since 2021, these modern tiny homes make a memorable and super cozy place to cocoon after a day at the beach.

The onsite restaurant, Coastal Kitchen, will take care of your post-beach meals as well, with a scratch-made lineup of seasonal salads, perfectly crisp fries and burgers. The general store next door is more like a mercantile, selling everything under the sun, from s’mores kits and soft serve to upscale snacks, beer and wine and beach supplies.

The way back home is just as fun. Be sure to stop in Tomales for a bit and grab a loaf or two of amazing bread from the Route One Bakery & Kitchen. The bakery also makes focaccia and giant squares of pizza topped with seasonal delights. The cute Tomales General Store is just across the street and filled with anything and everything you could ever need. And upstairs is the Two Silos Mercantile consignment shop, the perfect place to grab a  souvenir to remind you to return soon.

If You Go

Wild West Ferments: Open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Friday-Monday at 80 Fourth St. in Point Reyes Station; www.wildwestferments.com.

Marconi State Historic Park: Trails at this state park are open from sunrise to sunset. Rooms at the Lodge at Marconi start at $223. 18500 Highway 1 on Tomales Bay; www.lodgeatmarconi.com

Nick’s Cove: Open from noon to 7 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday-Saturday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sundays at 23240 Highway 1 in Marshall; www.nickscove.com.

Dillon Beach Resort:, Coastal Kitchen opens at noon Thursday-Sunday. Cottages at the resort start at $99 for a non-ocean view and $299 for an ocean view; cottages that sleep six start at $499. 1 Beach Ave., Dillon Beach; www.dillonbeachresort.com

Route One Bakery & Kitchen: Open from 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Mondays and until 3 p.m. Thursday-Sunday at 27000 Highway 1 in Tomales; www.routeonekitchen.com.

Tomales General Store: Open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sundays at 27005 Highway 1 in Tomales; www.instagram.com/tomalesgeneralstore. Two Silos Mercantile, which is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursday-Sunday, is upstairs; www.instagram.com/two_silos.