A modest-looking spot to experience new wines

Carrington’s Fine Wines sits among old-timey saloons, gift shops and a sushi restaurant on a Gold Rush-era side street in Nevada City. “People who come here know where they are going,” says owner Cal Carrington, 68, slipping his hands into the pockets of the madras shorts he wears year-round. During its not terribly extensive business hours — 10:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Thursdays, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays — Carrington holds well-attended tastings. Mystery Reds is another category: seven bottles are in brown paper and customers have to guess the varietal from a list of 10. Carrington is now paying this forward — if he’s open, then customers are drinking and asking questions, and educated consumers are apparently eager ones. Carrington admits that he carries a fair number of wines that “hit you right between the eyes,” but he also has a lot of lighter Pinot Noirs.